ITENESFRDE

Barcelona and Milan · Since 1986 · Leather goods and luggage

ARKTP Studios

Creative Strategy · Product Design

Curiosity begins where cultural change becomes product.

The volume assembles from its parts: shells, frame, handle bridge and wheel group. 17 seconds, no audio.

Who we are

We turn what is changing in culture into a concrete direction for the product.

We do not chase trends: we look for what generates them. We watch how behaviour, desire, ritual and the relationship with objects change. Then we bring that reading inside the identity of the maison, to understand what can evolve without losing recognisability.

For us design does not begin with form. It begins with a question.

Why should this object exist today?

Cultural reading

We look at what generates change, before it becomes a trend. Always through the identity and the audience of the maison.

Archetype, not trend

Before style we define what the object must be: a principle able to generate products, families and continuity over time.

All the way to the material

Materialls, components, hardware, prototypes. It is in the material that a vision proves it can become a product.

The DNA of the process

From cultural reading to product strategy.

Every maison owns codes that built its identity. But no code lives in a vacuum. The way we travel, work, live, buy and show ourselves changes. What we carry with us changes. The meaning of objects changes.

A gap can open: society moves, the product stands still. ARKTP works in that gap.

On one side we read cultural transformation. On the other we know the reality of industrial decisions: categories, collections, calendars, materials, workshops, prototypes and costs.

Choose a phase

The six phases of the ARKTP process. Choose a phase to bring it forward. 01 OBSERVE Trends are alreadyconsequences:we look for the cause. 02 RECOGNISE We separate identitycodes fromhabits. 03 GRAFT A language entersonly if it producesa function. 04 ARCHETYPE Before style:what it holds, how itopens and is carried. 05 STRATEGY Which category itenters from and howit extends in time. 06 MATERIAL Materials, hinges,prototypes. Here thevision is tested. CULTURE VISION PRODUCT ARKTP Studios
01Observe

We do not observe trends: trends are already consequences. We look for what comes before them. How does the life of a maison’s audience change? Which gestures disappear? Which rituals emerge? Which objects must change meaning?

We always observe from the brand’s point of view: who has always chosen it, who is approaching it today, who might recognise themselves in the maison tomorrow.

Behaviour comes before the product.

02Recognise

Every maison carries a heritage of codes: proportions, materials, gestures, constructions, details.

Our work is to tell what truly belongs to the identity from what belongs only to habit.

Identity codes must keep living, even under new tension. Habits can be abandoned. Without this distinction, change erases identity or tradition becomes immobility.

To evolve is not to cut the roots. It is to make them produce something new.

03Graft

Innovation rarely comes from inside a single category.

That is why we look at automotive, architecture, sailing, workwear, technology, outdoor, art, music and urban culture.

But a graft is not a moodboard.

A car interior can suggest a new way of organising space. Technical protection can generate a construction. A salvaged sail can change the relationship between material, memory and durability.

An outside language enters the project only when it produces a function, a behaviour or a constructive possibility.

We do not take images from other worlds. We transfer their intelligence.

04Archetype

Cultural reading becomes structure.

Before style we define what the object must be: what it holds, how it opens, how it is carried, how it protects, how it transforms, which gesture it generates.

This is how the archetype is born.

Not a final shape, but a principle able to generate a family of products and cross several seasons.

Style can change. The archetype must hold.

05Strategy

An archetype becomes truly interesting when it can generate a system.

We define the founding product, the category from which to introduce the new language, the extensions that follow and the constant elements that keep the identity recognisable.

But we do not replicate.

Every category calls for a new interpretation: a construction born for a trunk cannot simply be scaled down into a bag.

Coherence is not repetition. It is belonging to the same thought.

06Material

In the end everything has to reach the hands.

Materialls, thicknesses, hinges, hardware, joints, stitching, proportions, mechanisms, prototypes.

This is where the vision is put to the test.

The identity of a product does not live in the silhouette alone. It lives in the sound of a closure, in the strength of a hinge, in the way a handle meets the hand, in the precision with which two materials come together.

This is where the vision becomes physical. And it is from here that the road to production begins.

CultureCodeGraftArchetypeStrategyMateriall

ARKTP works in the territory between strategy and product.

A strategy consultancy can stop at the vision. A style studio can start from the shape. We enter through meaning and arrive at the material, staying responsible for the passage from intuition to archetype, from archetype to prototype.

From prototype to production

Where the vision becomes a repeatable object.

The Materiall phase does not end with a good prototype.

The prototype proves the object can exist. Production has to prove it can exist a hundred, a thousand times, holding quality, function, cost and lead time.

Between the two there is an iterative process: any test can send you back to the prototype. That is not a failure. It is part of the design.

Choose a step

From prototype to production in three stages: prototype, validation, industrialisation. Validation can send the work back to the prototype. Any test can send the work back to the prototype Production 01 Prototype The first physical example 02 Validation Materials · Components · Assembly 03 Industrialisation Zero series · Costs · Engineering
01Prototype

The first complete physical example.

Not a shape model, but an object that opens, loads, is carried, is used, and can also break.

It exists to find out what drawing cannot tell: where the hand looks for support, where space is missing, which gesture is natural and which one does not work.

Any test can send you back to the prototype. That is expected: designing also means correcting.

02Validation

Three checks, one goal: to make the project repeatable.

Materialls. Abrasion, colour fastness to light and rubbing, durability of finishes, behaviour of joints over time. But also real availability, batches and minimum order quantities.

Components. Zips, closures, wheels, handles, frames and hardware are tested through opening, load, fatigue and corrosion cycles. This is where we decide what can be off the shelf and what has to be developed from scratch.

Assembly. The product is put together following the workshop’s real sequence, checking tolerances, clearances, order of operations and working times.

We do not validate a good piece. We validate a process able to repeat it.

03Industrialisation

Tooling, cutting dies, pilot moulds, control jigs. Then the pilot run, built under real production conditions and no longer under sampling conditions.

This is the moment the project finally meets the numbers: bill of materials, industrial cost per variant, minimum order quantities, working times, production and delivery calendar.

Production technique is settled together with the workshop: work instructions, quality control points, acceptance criteria and training.

Industrialisation makes the project repeatable even when the designer is no longer in the factory.

Scope

Four territories, one method.

Women

Women’s leather goods

Frame bags, evening clutches, vanity cases and hardware. From the architecture of the collection to the construction of the product: leathers, closures, components and supplier development.

Men

Men’s leather goods

Briefcases, backpacks and small leather goods. Constructions, technical linings and hardware families developed as a system, from prototype to production.

Travel

Luggage and travel

Hard and soft luggage, trunks and modular systems. Shell, pull system, wheels, handles, interiors and mechanisms are designed as parts of a single architecture.

Special

Special projects

Automotive, protection, sailing and technical materials are not extra categories: they are part of our design culture. From Mercedes-Benz finishes to Dainese protection, through to Slam sailcloth.

Portfolio

Five maisons. Five ways of turning an intuition into a product system.

A significant part of this work was developed under NDA. The images published come from authorised material or from non-confidential studio documentation. Tooling data, supplier terms and confidential programmes are not shown.

Fregoli — Malle-coiffeuse and women’s leather goods

A trunk that becomes a dressing table. A flower that becomes construction.

Two projects that look far apart: furniture luggage, where the archetype comes from the opening mechanism, and women’s leather goods, where it comes from observing a natural form.

Different in their starting point, identical in method: first we define what the object must be, then we decide how it should look.

04.1 a

Malle-coiffeuse

The silhouette of the malle chapelière. The function of the coiffeuse.

The trunk does not merely contain: as it opens it becomes furniture.

The circular lid swings back and holds the mirror. The tray beneath organises jewellery and accessories. The cylindrical body splits into two shells, revealing two banks of drawers and freeing the space to sit in the middle.

In a few movements, a closed travel volume becomes a complete coiffeuse.

Everything comes from a single hinge pitch. The two equatorial bands are not decoration: they carry the latches, align the studs and resolve the joint between the shells. They stay identical as the diameter changes, allowing size variants without multiplying the tooling.

Pink printed croc, pale blue interiors and drawer fronts, studs and locks in burnished metal, wheels integrated into the side bodies.

Role: Design Manager and head of product development.

Closed volume: two equatorial bands, riveted studs, snap locks aligned on the opening axis.
Closed volume: two equatorial bands, riveted studs, snap locks aligned on the opening axis.
Lid tipped back and upper tray: mirror in the lid, compartments for rings and chains, pale blue base.
Lid tipped back and upper tray: mirror in the lid, compartments for rings and chains, pale blue base.
Drawers pulled out: differentiated travel, fronts with negative triangle grip, movable mirror and storage surface.
Drawers pulled out: differentiated travel, fronts with negative triangle grip, movable mirror and storage surface.
04.1 b

Women · Lily of the valley, from flower to hardware

The lily of the valley enters the project as structure, not as decoration.

The stem becomes the handle and sets its section. The knot of the stalk becomes the anchor point. The closed bell becomes the end cap that holds the stone.

No element is applied to a shape already decided. The plant generates the form.

The path runs through photography, hand drawing, modelling, brass prototype, test stones and enamelled piece. Each step checks expression and manufacturability at once: minimum thicknesses, mould undercuts, strength and load.

The reference: a real lily of the valley, studied in the relationship between stem, bells and buds.
The reference: a real lily of the valley, studied in the relationship between stem, bells and buds.
First drawing: the leaf becomes the load-bearing body, the buds become pendants.
First drawing: the leaf becomes the load-bearing body, the buds become pendants.
The stem in pencil: a continuous line running around the volume without breaking.
The stem in pencil: a continuous line running around the volume without breaking.
3D modelling of the stem: undercuts, minimum thicknesses, anchor points.
3D modelling of the stem: undercuts, minimum thicknesses, anchor points.
Modelling the bell: incised veins, wavy rim, constant wall thickness for the mould.
Modelling the bell: incised veins, wavy rim, constant wall thickness for the mould.
The knot in the stem becomes the anchoring: two bells hang from the same loop, free to swing.
The knot in the stem becomes the anchoring: two bells hang from the same loop, free to swing.
Render of the hammered leather handle: brass end cap and red enamel.
Render of the hammered leather handle: brass end cap and red enamel.
Gilded brass prototype with test stones: checking fit and proportion.
Gilded brass prototype with test stones: checking fit and proportion.
Enamelled buds mounted on a ball chain: pink and green, ribs left visible.
Enamelled buds mounted on a ball chain: pink and green, ribs left visible.
The finished hardware: gilt brass and white and yellow enamel, one bell per link.
The finished hardware: gilt brass and white and yellow enamel, one bell per link.
04.1 c

Women · Wicker basket bag

The same archetype changes scale and material.

Woven wicker builds the volume, canvas closes its mouth, leather makes the handles. The enamelled buds come back as the end pieces of the chain.

They are not a detail added to the collection: they are the same grammar carried from one object to another.

Finished piece: woven wicker, red nappa handles, chain and enamelled buds on the side.
Finished piece: woven wicker, red nappa handles, chain and enamelled buds on the side.

Ferragamo — Travel system and bag collection

An architecture built around the gesture of travelling.

Leather, aluminium, pull system, handles and wheel housings are not components assembled at the end: they are dimensioned as parts of the same system.

The leather does not simply cover a shell already defined. Perimeter band, zip, corner reinforcements and handles take part in the construction.

The sequence shows the finished product and then takes it apart — handle brackets, control unit, wheel, pull bridge — because the project is born exactly that way: from the relationship between the parts to the identity of the whole.

Role: Creative Accessories Designer.

04.2 a

Travel system

Assembly sequence in rendering: the wheel unit comes together and the volume closes. 24 seconds, no sound.
Front elevation: metal perimeter band, leather shell, continuous zip.
Front elevation: metal perimeter band, leather shell, continuous zip.
Coffee leather variant: visible stitching, metal corners, logo embossed on the side.
Coffee leather variant: visible stitching, metal corners, logo embossed on the side.
Chocolate and metal: textured shell, aluminium corners and perimeter band, continuous zip along the edge.
Chocolate and metal: textured shell, aluminium corners and perimeter band, continuous zip along the edge.
The complete volume in chocolate: recessed side handle, column sunk into the shell.
The complete volume in chocolate: recessed side handle, column sunk into the shell.
Edge detail: the junction between shell, metal band and zip.
Edge detail: the junction between shell, metal band and zip.
Exploded view of the control unit: plate, buttons, transparent body, shell panel.
Exploded view of the control unit: plate, buttons, transparent body, shell panel.
Physical wheel prototype: 3D print and a ring machined from solid, logo engraved.
Physical wheel prototype: 3D print and a ring machined from solid, logo engraved.
Fork and wheel, polished and satin aluminium: arm junction and tread.
Fork and wheel, polished and satin aluminium: arm junction and tread.
The wheel revised in anthracite grey: mounting plate, swivel pin and fork in a single piece.
The wheel revised in anthracite grey: mounting plate, swivel pin and fork in a single piece.
The same wheel from the side: smoked tread, concentric hub, arm cantilevered off the axle.
The same wheel from the side: smoked tread, concentric hub, arm cantilevered off the axle.
04.2 b

Bag collection · from drawing to product

The same logic moves from luggage to bags.

The drawing sets the character before the material: the trapezoidal body, the three flaps closing the top edge, the handles that run down the front and become part of the drawing instead of sitting on top of it.

From sheet to prototype the construction does not change. The material changes — canvas, smooth leather, embossed Gancini — and so does the size, but the architecture of the edge and the handle anchoring remain.

One family: shopper, weekend bag, briefcase. One grammar.

Study drawing: trapezoidal body, three flaps on the top edge, handles extended down the front.
Study drawing: trapezoidal body, three flaps on the top edge, handles extended down the front.
The production model: flaps and keepers confirm the drawing, Gancini embossed on the body.
The production model: flaps and keepers confirm the drawing, Gancini embossed on the body.
Weekend bag: the same soft body, closed by a perimeter zip with double slider.
Weekend bag: the same soft body, closed by a perimeter zip with double slider.
Shopper from the same family: patch pocket on the front, zipped pocket on the side.
Shopper from the same family: patch pocket on the front, zipped pocket on the side.
Verification prototype in the studio: black leather sides, olive canvas body, press-stud handle anchoring.
Verification prototype in the studio: black leather sides, olive canvas body, press-stud handle anchoring.
Print trial on raw canvas: the logo treated as a pattern, not as a label.
Print trial on raw canvas: the logo treated as a pattern, not as a label.

Loro Piana — Hard luggage and soft bags

Two opposite constructions. One family.

The project crosses two different territories: hard luggage covered in hand-grained leather and soft bags in deerskin.

One material holds the shape. The other lives off its own deformation.

What unites them is the hardware.

Padlock, swivel hooks, handle end caps and studs all come from the same riveted-plate logic and cross both categories, growing lighter as they move from hard to soft.

The kinship does not come from repeating the shape, but from the continuity of the code.

Role: Accessory Designer and product development.

04.3 a

Hard luggage · Hand-grained leather

Two opening logics are tested on the same shell: multiple and tilting.

Once the architecture is chosen, the project moves into mechanics: handle bridge, telescopic tubes, wheel fork.

The grip bar does not stop at the collars: it continues and becomes the hook meant for the soft bag.

One component. Two functions. Nothing added.

Study model, multiple opening: three independent flaps on the same hinge pitch.
Study model, multiple opening: three independent flaps on the same hinge pitch.
Tilting opening: the lid rotates on a single axis, the shell stays upright.
Tilting opening: the lid rotates on a single axis, the shell stays upright.
Burgundy cabin trolley, pull system extended: handle bridge and telescopic tubes.
Burgundy cabin trolley, pull system extended: handle bridge and telescopic tubes.
Grip: aluminium tube, leather wrap, clamping collars, engraved end cap.
Grip: aluminium tube, leather wrap, clamping collars, engraved end cap.
Bag hook extended: the bar runs past the collars and becomes a rest for the soft bag.
Bag hook extended: the bar runs past the collars and becomes a rest for the soft bag.
Junction between grip and column: die-cast shoulder, logo engraved on the side.
Junction between grip and column: die-cast shoulder, logo engraved on the side.
Assembly sequence: shell, inner frame, pull unit, perimeter zip and wheel come together. 26 seconds, no sound.
Wheel and fork: junction with the base of the shell and protective band.
Wheel and fork: junction with the base of the shell and protective band.
Pair of spinner wheels: overhang, spacing and ground clearance.
Pair of spinner wheels: overhang, spacing and ground clearance.
Complete trolley in orange, four wheels, recessed top grip.
Complete trolley in orange, four wheels, recessed top grip.
Hardware family: padlock, swivel hooks, end caps, stud.
Hardware family: padlock, swivel hooks, end caps, stud.
04.3 b

Soft bags in deerskin

Deerskin will not take a rigid structure: it lives off its own softness.

That is why the construction starts at the handle and works down towards the volume. Plate anchors spread the load over a naturally deformable leather.

The hardware belongs to the same family as the luggage, but lightened. Even the size of the bag is born in relation to the trolley hook.

Hard and soft do not imitate each other. They recognise each other.

Blue deerskin tote: tubular handles, plate anchors, striped webbing strap.
Blue deerskin tote: tubular handles, plate anchors, striped webbing strap.
Detail: handle anchor and zip with contrasting tape.
Detail: handle anchor and zip with contrasting tape.
Deerskin backpack with two gusseted pockets, shown in collection context.
Deerskin backpack with two gusseted pockets, shown in collection context.

Louis Vuitton — Travel concept study

When frame, handle and wheel become a single gesture.

Exploratory study commissioned by the maison.

The theme is structural continuity: handle bridge, wheel fork and shell junction are read as parts of a single frame.

The form does not come from decorating the volume, but from the relationship between the elements that let the object be lifted, pulled and protected.

Colour and finish come afterwards. Architecture comes first.

The founding drawing: the fork comes out of the shell as an extension of the frame, not as an applied part.
The founding drawing: the fork comes out of the shell as an extension of the frame, not as an applied part.
Volume study in white: two sizes on the same architecture, continuous perimeter frame and bridge.
Volume study in white: two sizes on the same architecture, continuous perimeter frame and bridge.
CAD construction: continuity between column, handle bridge and shell shoulder.
CAD construction: continuity between column, handle bridge and shell shoulder.
CAD from above: top grip cut into the frame, with no visible brackets or fasteners.
CAD from above: top grip cut into the frame, with no visible brackets or fasteners.
Render: the frame wraps the shell from bridge to base in a single line.
Render: the frame wraps the shell from bridge to base in a single line.
Base: forks integrated into the bottom, monogram engraved in negative on the shell.
Base: forks integrated into the bottom, monogram engraved in negative on the shell.

Mandarina Duck — Product DNA

The material changes. The architecture stays recognisable.

The same luggage structure is explored through three material registers: technopolymer with contrasting hardware, pale shell with burgundy components, satin aluminium with perimeter frame.

The skin of the object changes. The principle that builds it does not.

Handle bridge, rear column, wheel housings and protective band remain constant elements.

Product DNA is not a shape to repeat. It is a principle able to survive change.

Role: product development and research.

Base, spinner wheels and lock built into the rear column.
Base, spinner wheels and lock built into the rear column.
Wheel and housing detail, with the protective band running down to the base.
Wheel and housing detail, with the protective band running down to the base.
Pale variant with burgundy hardware: pull handle and top grip.
Pale variant with burgundy hardware: pull handle and top grip.
Satin aluminium finish: development of the base and housings.
Satin aluminium finish: development of the base and housings.

Clients

Clients

Salvatore Ferragamo2008–2014
Loro Piana2014–2016
Louis VuittonConcept
Gianni Versace1995–1997
Mercedes-Benz Adv. Design2000–2001
Dainese2001–2003
Samsonite1992–1994
Mandarina Duck1989–1992
Piquadro1999–2002
Cartier / N. Gabrielli1986–1989
Iceberg1993–1995
Fregoli2018–2023

The ARKTP character

Curious — not trend-driven

We look for what generates change, before it becomes visible.

Cultured — not academic

Culture is there to build better products, not more sophisticated presentations.

Radical — not destructive

We question habits in order to protect what truly belongs to the identity.

Grafted — not decorative

We bring other languages into a project only when they introduce transferable intelligence.

Strategic — but material

A vision is incomplete until we know how to build it.

Authorial — but not self-referential

We do not impose a style on the maison. We look for the possible future of its language.

Our signature should not show. What should show is the maison, able to speak to its own time.

Profile

One founder. The drawing and the path that makes it real, held by the same hand.

Portrait of Cesar Horacio Tartuferi CHT

Cesar Horacio Tartuferi

Founder · CEO · Creative and product direction

Born in Buenos Aires in 1963, he came to Italy very young and trained at the Accademia di Belle Arti. His first research was in informal art, where form and meaning arise from material, from gesture, from the tension between elements.

From 1986 that same research entered industrial design. The scale, the tools and the constraints change, but not the question: what gives a form its meaning?

Forty years followed, across concept, product and industry, working for maisons and manufacturers in Italy, France and Spain, through fashion, automotive and technical sportswear.

Experience that builds a method transversal by nature. Materials, technologies and processes migrate from one sector to another: what begins in technical equipment as a functional necessity can become a new language in luxury; what belongs to industrial precision can meet the intelligence of artisanal manufacture.

It is precisely in the tension between craftsmanship and high technology, culture and industry, intuition and feasibility that his way of designing takes shape.

He does not start from style. He looks for the principle that generates a project, defines its language and carries it through material, construction and process.

To the point where an intuition becomes a product.

  • Creative direction
  • Product development
  • Materials research
  • Industrialisation
  • Project management
  • Product planning
  • Supplier network
  • Costing and delivery
TodayARKTP, Barcelona — Creative direction and product development
2018Fregoli — Design Manager
2014Loro Piana — Creative Accessories Designer
2008Salvatore Ferragamo — Creative Accessories Designer
2001Dainese — Creative Director
2000Mercedes-Benz Advanced Design Italia — Colour and finishes
1999Piquadro — Concept Designer, brand DNA
1999Fila Sport — Project Designer
1995Gianni Versace — Project and Product Designer
1993Gilmar / Iceberg — Accessories design
1992Samsonite Italia — Senior Luggage Designer
1989Mandarina Duck — Product development and research
1986Nazareno Gabrielli / Cartier Italia — Graphic and Accessories Designer
1986Accademia di Belle Arti — Painting and design